Introduction
Building a drift trike is a lot of fun and very rewarding. We
can be as
creative as we like when we are building our trike and we may
just learn a few things about physics and engineering. This
ebook
won’t tell us exactly what we need to do, because everyone has
access to different tools and parts. This ebook will give us the
tips
and show us the tricks we need to successfully use the parts we
can get our hands on.
At the completion of this book we will be able to build an entry
level
drift trike and start enjoying the buzz of downhill drift
triking.
The methods and styles used in this book are methods that have
worked and are proven. There are a lot of methods that are
better
but take a lot more time or money to get a similar result.
Right from the start, we would like to point out that drift
triking can
be a dangerous sport, we will be riding on public roads and
often
with other traffic. We must always follow the road rules, local
laws in
our state/country and we always wear safety gear. We speak on
this topic from experience.
Planning your build
TOOLS
YOU’RE GOING TO NEED
1. Welder –
Using a Electric Arc Welding but a MIG will do the job just
fine. The entry level MIG from Machine Mart (TE110 or TE135) is a bargain and
will be ample for this project. I recommend getting a proper gas cylinder
(Argon CO2 for MIG, Pure Argon for TIG) rather than using the disposable ones
as you'll get through loads and pay a fortune. It definitely works out better
value with a proper cylinder.
2. Lathe –
Unfortunately you need a
lathe for this build because of (1) the fit of the axle and the bearings you
will need some way of making some shims to make the fit tight. (2) the placing
of the disk brake you need to bore it to to get it to fit. If you haven't got a
lathe then you might need to call on your friendly local engineering shop/mate
who has one to get this sorted. Read the improvements section at the end where
I'll list how I'm going to simplify the design for my next build.
3. Hacksaw –
a mitre box is also
useful to get a square cut (but not essential). I was lucky enough to have a
Machine Mart/Clarke metal cutting band saw to hand which saved a lot of grief
but not essential at all.
4. Drill + Drillbits - pillar drill is useful (highly recommended)
but you can get by with a cordless
5. Hole Saws - the best you can afford! Quality makes all the
difference and saves untold grief.
6. Angle grinder - a cutting disk, a grinding disk, a
sanding flap disk and a knotted wire brush disk.
DRIFT TRIKE BUILD PLANS
No liability can be accepted to for any
inaccuracies or omissions in this publication, although every possible care has
been taken to make it as complete and accurate as possible.
The right is reserved to make changes at any
time without prior notice and without incurring an obligation to make such
changes to products manufactured previously.
All information contained in this publication is
based on the latest product information available at the time of publication.
Illustrations and photographs in this publication are intended for reference
use only and may not depict actual model component parts.
Avalanche has been designed to be an easy, quick
and cheap build for any one that is intrusted in motorized drift trikes but
doesn’t want an expensive off the shelf option. Avalanche uses a 6.5hp go kart
engine. This is a simple straight forward build that uses common parts that are
regularly available. We have designed this trike with a 40mm go kart rear axle
but we have also included measurements and instructions if you choose to use
other popular go kart axle sizes like 1 ¼” and 1” (25mm).
SPECIFCATIONS
Frame:
Mild steel RHS
Brakes: Go kart rear disc brake hub and caliper.
Must be 190mm in diameter for ground clearance. Bicycle brakes up front.
Handlebars
and stem: Bicycle
Front wheel and forks: standard BMX wheels,
forks and bearings. Custom trike wide wheels with forks to match can also be
used.
Rear
wheels: Front go kart tyres and rims that use a hub.
Rear axle:
Go kart 1”, 1 ¼” or 40mm rear axle.
Sprocket:
Go kart sprocket and hub. Must be 65 tooth or less for ground clearance.
Engine: 6.5hp four stroke go kart engine. An
engine based off a Honda GX200 is what will work best. These engines are widely
available due to them being copied from many different Chinese engine
manufacturers.
Clutch: Go
kart centrifugal clutch to suit engine.
Chain guard: Custom 1.6mm sheet metal guard. We
have included fabrication plans for this.
Bearings: Pillow block bearings. If using 40mm
rear axle then two UPC 208 – 40mm bearings needed. If using 1 ¼” rear axle two
UPC 206 – 20 bearings needed. If using 25mm (1”) rear axle then two UPC 205 –
25mm bearing needed.
Seat: Many different seats can be used on drift
trikes. We have included a few mounting plate designs for more popular seats.
2
IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING BEFORE RIDING
DRIFT
TRIKE BUILD PLANS wish to
advise in the intrust of your enjoyment, some safety features which will enable you to enjoy riding your trike
and minimise the risks to yourself and others.
HELMET
Always wear a good crash helmet, a full face
helmet offers more protection than an open face. Remember to buckle up the chin
strap.
CLOTHING
Always
wear paints, long sleeved shirts and clothed in foot wear.
PROTECTIVE GEAR
It is advisable to wear knee and elbow pads to
minimise injury if and accident was to occur. Gloves are also and essential
part of protective gear.
DRINKING, DRUGS AND RIDING
DO NOT consume alcohol and ride any type of trike, bike or vehicle. Drinking
and riding is dangerous to both
yourself and others. The nature of drift trike riding is demanding and
unpredictable so you need to be alert and focused on what you are doing at all
times. Drugs and alcohol dull your senses and concentration.
SHARP OBJECTS
Make sure the frame or any parts of the drift
trike that you have fabricated is to design specs and all sharp edges and burrs
have been removed.
BRAKES
Good brakes are essential. Braking is relative
to speed; the faster you go, the better your brakes should be. Always maintain
your brakes so that they are always in good working order.
STEERING
Steering is an important safety area, without it
you have lost control. Always make sure that steering components are in good
condition and check for loose bolts/parts.
The more responsible you are, the better it will
be for all of us and the better an image for the sport of trike drifting you
will create, guaranteeing for all of us acceptance and respect from the general
public.
3
DRIFT
TRIKE BUILD PLANS, their
agents or employees will not be held responsible for any damage caused by any of their trike designs to person or
property.
DRIFT
TRIKE BUILD PLANS make every
effort to advise their customers of safety
precautions and responsibility and cannot be held responsible for the
actions of an individual or individuals. DRIFT TRIKE BUILD PLANS cannot be held
responsible for an individual’s quality of workmanship or for the suitability
of the finished product in respect to safety or the performance an individual
may expect from the said design in various conditions. Drifting trikes is a
dangerous sport because of the varying conditions that may be encountered and
although DRIFT TRIKE BUILD PLANS
makes every effort to design a solid and safe drift trike, DRIFT TRIKE BUILD PLANS have
no control over how or where an individual chooses to use their drift trike.
DRIFT TRIKE BUILD PLANS makes every effort to supply quality components to its customers but will not be held
responsible as to the way an individual assembles, fits or uses said components
or the way or manner an individual uses a drift trike.
|
Glossary of Terms
|
Bending
|
Tending to curve or bow.
|
BMS
|
Bright Mild Steel.
|
CAD
|
Computer Aided Design – objects that have been designed on a
|
|
sophisticated computer software drawing package.
|
CNC
|
Computer Numerical Control – a system used to control automated
|
|
machines using computer guidance.
|
℄
|
Centreline – symbol shown at the centre of some drawings.
|
ERW
tube
|
Electric Resistance Welded tube. Is usually made of
better quality steel
|
|
and comes with thinner walls that normal steel pipe.
|
Fabricating
|
To measure, cut and weld to create a finished product from raw
|
|
materials.
|
Flatbar
|
Steel that is sold as flat lengths.
|
Gusset
|
A bracket strengthening an angle of a structure.
|
ID
|
Inside Diameter – inside measurement of round objects.
|
M
|
Meter – metric measurements
|
Mm
|
Millimetre – metric measurements.
|
Module
|
A self contained item, normally an assembly or parts to create a
|
|
specific item. Normally used in combination with other units.
|
NB
|
Nominal Bore – Classification given to some sizes of pipe.
|
Nyloc
|
Brand name for a self-locking nut that uses a nylon insert to lock
onto
|
|
the bolt thread.
|
Ø
|
Diameter – measurement for round objects.
|
OD
|
Outside Diameter – outside measurement of round objects.
|
PCD
|
Pitch Circle Diameter – diameter of a circle in which holes are evenly
|
|
spaced.
|
RHS
|
Rectangular Hollow Section (steel).
|
Scollop
|
Notched. Remove material.
|
Wheelbase
|
The distance between front and rear axle centres.
|
Some basic equipment will be needed to fabricate
the drift trike frame. Here is a list of basic tools and equipment needed.
WELDER
A ‘Mig Welder’ is the most preferred as it can
be used by most novice welders with the minimum of experience. Another type of
welder is the ‘Arc Welder’, this can be used just as readily but needing more
skill and practice to produce clean tidy welds. Other forms of welding suitable
for construction are ‘Tig’ and ‘Gas’ welding (brazing). The form of welding
used depends on what your personally have available and what your skills are
best suited to.
CUT OFF
SAW
Ether a grinding type ‘Drop Saw’ or a ‘Power
Hacksaw’, or ‘Bandsaw’ may be used. If either of these are not available a
‘Hand Hacksaw or ‘Angle Grinder’ may be used with a sturdy vice.
DRILL
PRESS
A drill press of 5/8” (16mm) capacity is the
more suitable but you may use a hand power drill either in a drill press stand
or on its own.
SQUARES
A large fabrication square, a one meter rule and
protractor bevel for marking out and setting up the frame and angles will be
required. A tape measure for measuring tube lengths.
GENERAL
HAND TOOLS
Adjustable spanners, pliers, angle grinders (4”
or 5”), socket set, hand files, bench vice and a sturdy bench will all come in
handy.
BEFORE
BUYING PARTS DECIDE ON THE FOLLOWING
There are three popular sized rear go kart axles
that you can choose from for this build (25mm or 1”, 1 ¼” and 40mm). All axles
should be 1050mm long. A 25mm / 1” axle will be lighter and cheaper but a 40mm
axle will be stronger. Parts so suit a 1 ¼” might be more widely available and
cheaper in your area. A 25mm / 1” axle will give you a little more ground
clearance than a 1 ¼” and 40mm. So before buying a certain size axle weigh up
the pro’s and con’s of each size. Parts needed to suit your axle size are:
AXLE, Pillow block bearings x 2, disc brake hub, sprocket hub and wheel hub x
2. Some stores sell all this in a package, this is usually the cheapest option.
Make sure you shop around for best price.
PURCHASE
OF PARTS
Purchase of second hand parts will bring the
cost of the build down considerably. The design of this trike incorporates
widely available parts that can be easily found from many suppliers.
WHEELS
Front go kart wheels and tyres are used in this
design because they are easily found and second hand items are usually sold
cheap or just thrown in the trash. Wheels with a hub to suit your axle size
choice. Front wheel and forks are standard BMX wheels, forks and bearings.
Custom trike wide wheels with forks to match can also be used.
GEOMETRY
Take extra time and care to ensure all the
steering components are true and square before fully welding.
You will need a go kart rear disc brake, disc
brake caliper, brake leaver and a disc hub to suit you axle choice. We
recommend using a 190mm diameter disc brake, any larger than this will give you
very little ground clearance. Please install the front BMX brakes on the front
wheel for obvious reasons. Some genuine trike forks have brackets for disk
brakes; this can be a far better braking system but will cost more.
SEAT
A good seat that holds you to the trike is
essential. I recommend buying a genuine replacement drift trike seat from a
dedicated drift trike parts supplier. Many other seats could also be used just
ensure you want slip out of it while drifting. The universal seat mounting
plate in this set of plains will allow a lot of different types of seats to be
used.
SPROCKET
A go kart rear sprocket and hub to suit you axle
choice will be needed. A 65 tooth sprocket is the largest sprocket you will be
able to use to still have enough ground clearance. We recommend getting a
sprocket to suit a #35 chain.
CLUTCH
Buy a clutch that suits your engine and sprocket
choice. We recommend buying a clutch, sprocket and chain together in a package.
GEARING
AND DRIVE RAITO
There is a lot of information on the internet
about drift trike gear ratios. There is no 1 size fits all answer when
considering gear ratio. If your small and light you might get away with a
taller gear ratio than a larger overweight bloke. We recommend doing a little
research into pro’s and con’s of gearing before buying your rear sprocket and
clutch/sprocket. In saying that something like a 1 to 5 or 1 to 6 ratio is
usually a good fit. So shop for something like a 10 and 60 tooth or a 12 and 60
tooth package.
A quick eBay search for 6.5hp engine will come
up with hundreds of engines. Some will be better quality than others. Some will
have an electric start. Some might have a 2 to 1 drive ratio. Some will come
with a package including throttle controls, exhausts, mounting plates and other
extra goodies. We recommend shopping around and buying a mid price ranged
engine off a seller with a good returns policy. The Honda GX200 OHV four stroke
engine that has been copied many times over by Chinese manufactures is a good
robust engine that makes for an excellent go kart and drift trike engine.
MATERIALS
LIST
|
MATERIAL
|
|
|
QTY
|
|
USED FOR
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1.6mm plate
|
600mm x
700mm
|
|
Chain
guard
|
||||
|
3mm plate
|
600mm x
600mm
|
Guard,
engine and brake
|
|||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
caliper mount
|
|
40 x 40 x 2 RHS
|
6
meters
|
|
Frame
|
|||||
35 x 35 x 2 RHS
|
2.5
meters
|
|
Frame
|
|||||
34mm I.D. ERW pipe with
|
500mm
|
Headset,
Footrests
|
||||||
|
2mm
wall
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
PARTS LIST
|
ITEM
|
|
QTY
|
|
USED FOR
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Front go
kart wheels and
|
2
|
|
|
Wheels
|
||||
|
tires
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Go kart
wheel hubs to
|
2
|
|
|
Wheel hubs
|
||||
suit axle size choice
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Go
kart rear axle. In
|
1
at 1050mm long
|
|
Axle
|
|||||
ether 25mm (1”), 1 ¼” or
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
40mm
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Go kart rear disc brake
|
1 at
Ø190mm
|
|
Brakes
|
|||||
and
caliper
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Disc brake hub to suit
|
1
|
|
|
Brakes
|
||||
your axle size choice
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Sprocket and hub to suit
|
1
|
|
|
Gearing
|
||||
your
axle choice
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Pillow block bearings to
|
2
|
|
|
Bearings
|
||||
suit axle size you choose
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
6.5hp OHV four stroke
|
1
|
|
|
Engine
|
||||
Go kart engine
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Brake
leaver and cable
|
1
|
|
|
Brakes
|
||||
to suit handle bars used
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Throttle and cable to suit
|
1
|
|
|
Throttle
|
||||
handle bars used
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Clutch
and sprocket to fit
|
1
|
|
|
Gearing
|
||||
engine
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
#35 chain
|
1
|
|
|
Chain
|
||||
M10 x 40
bolt and Nyloc
|
4
|
|
Fasten engine to frame
|
|||||
|
nut
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
M16 x 60
(40mm, 1 ¼”
|
4
|
|
To fasten bearings to frame
|
|||||
axle) or M12 x 60 (1” or
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
25mm
axle)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
Bolt and nuts for
|
These
normally come
|
Fastening parts together
|
||||||
fastening disc brakes,
|
with
parts when you buy
|
|
|
|
||||
brake caliper and
|
|
them
|
|
|
|
|||
sprockets.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
M8 x 20
bolt and nut
|
2
|
|
Fastening chain guard to
|
|||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
frame
|
|
ITEM
|
|
|
QTY
|
|
|
USED FOR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
20” trike front wheel
|
|
1
|
|
|
Front wheel
|
|
||
Trike forks
|
|
1
|
|
|
Steering
|
|
||
Headset bearings to suit
|
|
1 set
|
|
|
Steering
|
|
||
Handlebar stem
|
|
1
|
|
|
Steering
|
|
||
Handlebars
|
|
1
|
|
|
Steering
|
|
||
Brakes to suit forks
|
|
1set
|
|
|
Brakes
|
|
||
|
Seat
|
|
1
|
|
|
Seat
|
|
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
|
|
Engine
Description
|
124.7cc
|
Cooling
|
Air
Cooling
|
Displacement
|
124.7
cc
|
Maximum
Power
|
9.
Bhp @ 7000 rpm
|
Maximum
Torque
|
10.35
Nm @ 4000 rpm
|
Number
of Cylinders
|
1
|
Bore
|
52.4
mm
|
Stroke
|
57.8
mm
|
GEARBOX & CLUTCH
|
|
Number
of Gears
|
4
|
Clutch
|
Multiplate
Wet
|
BASIC MEASUREMENTS
There
has been a lot of talk around ideal wheelbase for a drift trike
and
to date this is the best we’ve seen. Axle to axle length (front to
rear)
is best around 1000mm - 1100mm and width outside to outside
of
wheels around 900mm is good.
When
we mount our seat, our seat should be set so that the rear
axle
sits around 100-200mm behind your lower back.
Frame
A frame can be built in any design, but the front end needs to
be
made from a bicycle of some description. This can be a BMX,
mountain bike or even a pitbike front end. The most common
choice
is BMX because these are cheap to get hold of and the small
20
wheel doesn’t rub on our leg like the larger mountain bike wheel
does.
When
we are choosing a bicycle to tear apart, first check what kind of steel the
bike is made from. If it is alloy, we will need to TIG weld the frame.
Some people use more of the bike frame when building their drift trike, but often
these frames will break just in front
of the seat. Normally a bicycle doesn’t bear so much load at this point.Use
what we can to support parts when assembling our
frame. Tack it together and then measure it up to make sure it
is square. Turn the front wheel to 90 degrees to make sure the frame doesn’t
hit the ground at
full lock.
The right amount of angle for the headpiece/forks, often
referred to as ‘rake’. This is hard to measure the angle of, especially while building a trike with no
wheels on it. Headpiece should be
between 15 and 25 degrees from vertical.
Closer to 15 degrees for a low speed trike, more angle if you
are building a trike for high speed
use.
Wheels
There are 3 common
types of wheels that are used;
- Replacement wheels like
Huffy Green Machine wheels (fig 9)
- Go -kart wheels (fig 10)
- Trolley wheels (fig 11)
All 3 options are great for different applications and resources
that
we have access to. Some are more suited to high speed runs
and
Replacement plastic wheels
are an easy fit for our new drift
trike. These are sold as replacement wheels for the likes of the
Huffy
Green Machine or the Big Drift trike from Mad Dog Cycles. These
use
a 12mm axle and are hollow plastic.
Pros – easily interchangeable, these can be held on with just a split pin or nylon lock nut. They are cheap to buy, light weight and in most case they are fairly easy to source.
Cons – they wear out fast on coarse chip and because they are made of hollow plastic they are very noisy. The insides have been known to heat up and melt if they rub the axle housing (but lubricant helps with this problem).
GoBkart
wheels are a common fitment and are the front
tires from a standard go-kart. Standard sizing is
10x4.5 inch. The tire is deflated and a
plastic sleeve is put over the tire. The tire is then re-inflated which holds the plastic in place.
Pros – Sleeves are easily
interchangeable. The low friction bearing rear end will handle anything we
throw at it and it will practically be
maintenance free. They are very quiet compared to replacement wheels.
Cons – Go-kart wheels are heavier. This does not so much effect operation of the drift trike but we will be lifting the trike onto a trailer or truck many times through the day.
Trolley/lift truck wheels
are also a common fitment but only
recommended for people under 70kg and at low speeds (under
20mph). As pictured, these are wheels we can buy from any local
hardware store and mounted similar to the go-kart wheels. We
recommend you only use PVC on these, as PE will put extra stress
on
the wheel/tire and may cause it to buckle. To help the tire bind
to the
sleeve some people use glue or stick sand paper on the inside of
the
sleeves.
Pros – Cheap and easy to obtain
Cons – The sleeve can easily move if it does not bind to the tire. The bearings on these are often weak and not rated for high speed. The tires are thin so don’t provide the sleeve with much horizontal contact. These tires often puncture and/or burst.
Sleeves
Sleeves can be made from any kind of plastic as long as it’s
strong.
Simple deflate the tire, swap the sleeve and re -inflate. The
most
common types of sleeves are polyethylene (PE) or polyvinyl
chloride
(PVC).
Sleeves can be any thickness, but PVC will split when it wears
down.
It is recommended to use over 4mm sleeves. Keep in mind the
thicker our sleeves are, the longer they
will last.
Mounting Wheels
Replacement
wheels require a 12mm axle in most cases. We can weld short lengths of 12,, rod
to the frame or run a length of rod running right though the frame. This 12mm
rod will need to be a high grade steel to avoid flexing and bending. A rod full
length axle will require bushes of some descrription, which will need to be
oiled frequently to reduce friction, drag and heat. These bushes can be plastic
or nylon and will need to be pressed into the frame.
Bearings
Mounting
bearings can be done a number of ways, but here’s how we can add bearings to
the rear end of our tyrike fairly easily.
Bearing
have a lot less friction than bushes. This will make our trike slightly faster
and bearing will not heart up and melt the insides of your wheel kike bushes
sometimes can. Bearing are also maintenance free. As long as we have decent
bearings, we will not need to libricate or replace them either.
Bearings
are pressed into each end of a short length of thick wall
tube
(top). Bearings must have 12mm internal diameter for the axle.
Two
holes are drilled and threaded on each side for grub screws to
hold
the housing in place within the trike frame.
The
axle is siply a 12mm high tensile bolt, at what ever length we require, and can
be spaced with washers. Make sure to use a washer or two between the bearing
and the wheel.
The
bearing housing sits in the frame of the trike and is held with the
4
grub screws. This provides a low friction rear end and keeps the trike very lightweight.
Go-kart
wheel will require stub. Stubs for these wheels will need to be 16mm and have a
thread turned on the end, this is then welded into or onto aour axle steel.
These make it very eas to change wheels, they enable you to run with a full
bearing cartridge and are maintenance free.
They can also be mounted by pressing a UHMWPE (high quality)
bush
into our frame, which will hold a length of 16mm threaded rod as
shown below.
Wheels
can be held in with nuts on threaded rod or with a high quality split pin and
washers. This is only an option if our axle is spinning with the wheels,
definitely not suitable for stub axles.
BUSHES
Bushes are a very easy way to mount a rear axle inside a length
of exhaust tube. Use a length of 2mm x
51mm exhaust tube, about 650mm long, and
press the bushes into each end.
Front Wheels
Front
wheels are normally a bicycle wheel. 16 or 20 inches front wheels are best. If
we use a 24 or 26 inches wheel we are likely to burn our leg a lot while
drifting, because when we turn the streeing to full lock, the tire will hit
your lag. This will happen sometimes with a 20 inch wheel too, so it is
recommended to use a slick style BMX tire instead of an affroad style tire.
BRAKES
We’re drift trike needs to have brakes. If we ride without
brakes
our tempting fate. If we ride with poor brakes, we’re just as
likely
to come off second best to a car, tree or a drop down a steep
stony
bank. Make sure our brake pads are sitting right on
the rim. If our BMX
come
with a plastic brake lever it’s worth upgrading to an alloy
leaver.
This will give our trike more movement in the leaver and less
flex.
Seats
Our seat can be made of anything. We’ve seen beer crates,
recycling
bins, buckets and shovelheads used as seats. Our seat needs to
be
well mounted and stable. Most common seats to use are go -kart
seats, there are a huge amount of companies making great
fiberglass
seats.
Riding our drift
trike
We
need to be safe when we are drift triking.
We
will need a full face helmet and covered arms and legs at
minimum.
A good idea is gloves and elbow pads, and a lot of drift
trikers
use knee pads, hi visibility vests and neck braces too.
We
will have crashes, expect them and be prepared.
When
riding at night always have a front and rear light. We need to
have
a white front light to help us see where we’re going and we
need
a red rear light so traffic can see you. These are cheap, simple
to
install and save lives.
Be
considerate of motorists and residents. Think about how much
noise
our trike is making if we’re riding at night, avoid quiet streets
where
people are sleeping.
Conclusion and
Future Scope
By
the final analysis of the project above, we may conclude that there is a
prominent future scope for the Drift Trike. It is a sport oriented triwheeled
bike with concept of loosing traction from rear wheels and drifting. It can
drift on higher speed without rolling.
There
are theoretical results that stable drifting may be achieved with robust and
efficinet performance. The thrust produced is capable enouth for generating
higher torque of 910N-m with maximum
speed of 96Km/hr.
Referance
No comments:
Post a Comment